This is a welding table that I designed with inspiration from
many different tables that I found on a variety of sites. I wanted a
table that would be easy and inexpensive to build, have clamp access
anywhere on the top, and have a flat working surface. This is what I
came up with! It is made from 11 gauge (1/8") rectangular tubing in
three sizes: 6" x 2", 3" x 2", and 2" x 2". I decided to use 6" x 2"
tube because it was much less expensive and 24 times as stiff as 6" x 2"
x 1/2" plate. I bolted the working surface onto the frame to keep it
from bending during welding and so I could easily replace them if
needed.
The metal cost about $250 and the casters were about $60.
This complete table is available in Google Sketchup.
The metal cost about $250 and the casters were about $60.
This complete table is available in Google Sketchup.
Step 1: Make the working surface sub-frame
Spacer plates are cut, drilled, and tapped to 1/2"-13. I used a
jig to position the spacers when drilling the holes. I put an "x" in
the same corner of each spacer so I could keep them oriented the same
way during assembly. This will help minimize production errors.
Check the main sub-frame beams for straightness. If they are bent at all, drill the holes on the side with largest radius (the "outside" of the bend). Drill 3/4" holes where the spacer plate holes will be when welded onto the beam. The over-sized holes in the beam ensure that there will be no material blocking the bolts that go through the spacer plates.
Drill two 1/2" holes in piece of scrap metal 7-1/2" apart. You will use this as a placement guide for the spacer plates. Precisely position the first spacer plate on the beam and tack weld it into place. Thread a 1/2"-13 bolt through one hole in the guide and into the tack welded spacer plate. Position the open hole in the guide over the next hole in the beam. Place a spacer between the beam and guide. Thread another bolt through the guide and into the spacer. Center the spacer on the beam and tack weld into place. Continue this process with the rest of the spacers. Using the guide will ensure that the holes in the spacers are exactly the same distance from each other.
Repeat for the second sub-frame beam.
Check the main sub-frame beams for straightness. If they are bent at all, drill the holes on the side with largest radius (the "outside" of the bend). Drill 3/4" holes where the spacer plate holes will be when welded onto the beam. The over-sized holes in the beam ensure that there will be no material blocking the bolts that go through the spacer plates.
Drill two 1/2" holes in piece of scrap metal 7-1/2" apart. You will use this as a placement guide for the spacer plates. Precisely position the first spacer plate on the beam and tack weld it into place. Thread a 1/2"-13 bolt through one hole in the guide and into the tack welded spacer plate. Position the open hole in the guide over the next hole in the beam. Place a spacer between the beam and guide. Thread another bolt through the guide and into the spacer. Center the spacer on the beam and tack weld into place. Continue this process with the rest of the spacers. Using the guide will ensure that the holes in the spacers are exactly the same distance from each other.
Repeat for the second sub-frame beam.
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